DAY 211

Tuesday 7 February 2012

Glad to be back at our free camp in Tarifa, Charles was up at 10:15 and in the other camp restaurant’s Wi-Fi zone, eager to hear from his contacts in Morocco, and specifically Jajouka (home of the ancient Master Musicians of Jajouka, a possibly 4,000 year old tradition that was brought to the Western world’s attention by former Rolling Stones member Brian Jones). Success, he did! And they were more than welcoming to all of us, especially since we had never even met each other, and only were in contact through mutual friends.

Dian and Nicole cleaned the van’s interior, then Dian made delicious HAMBURGERS for lunch! Topped with a little mayo curry, lettuce and tomatoes, it was a perfect lunch which we ate happily on our beachside “porch.”

While Charles checked the car’s oil and put in some anti-freeze, Dian and Nicole went to get water at the natural spring, with Bear. Bear was a dog that had been hanging around us all day, and was so big we named him accordingly. He was an extremely well behaved dog and even as we ate our hamburgers he sat patiently a few feet away.

On the way to the spring we noticed a young man sitting up high on a dune with his guitar. We waved hello but kept going. At the spring, we were saddened to see Dian’s “No Littering” sign had been tampered with. But did you think that would stop us? No! We just put the sign right back where it had been, filled up our water bottles, and headed back. Dian took lots of pictures of Nicole and Bear, the ocean and the dunes.

The man with his guitar was still sitting on the dune so we asked if we could hear him play. He said, "Sure" rather sheepishly but very sweetly, so Dian, Nicole and Bear climbed up to sit by him. His playing was very free and melodic, and we chatted for a while in between songs. Nicole and Dian sang a couple of their own (including The Doors’ “People Are Strange,” which he said was one of his favorites). He introduced himself as Marcus, and he said he thought it was beautiful-our family’s relationship and what we were doing. He invited all three of us to come later that evening for music and wine or tea at the free camping site just a few paces away from where our site was.

Bear dutifully followed us back (though we began to wonder where his owners were, or if he even had any, though his brushed coat and clean collar indicated he indeed had a home). Charles had been talking with Luzie and Heinz, who were going to check into the nearby campsite that night in preparation for their son who was coming to visit them with his girlfriend. They asked if we would want to come over that night for drinks (and a shower! because we would be their guests at the camp) and we readily accepted.

We had a veggie-stuffed omelet, then killed time by using Internet (Charles), taking a shower (Nicole) and just relaxing in the van (Dian). We met Luzie, Heinz and their dog Don at around 7, and they brought out a lovely array of fresh Spanish desserts and Portuguese port. They showed us pictures of their beautiful home on the border of Denmark and Germany, and we chatted. At some point during the  get together Dian left to take a shower with Luzie and Nicole guiding her there.

It was getting late, but we still wanted to meet Marcus at his campfire, so Lucy and Don joined us. There he was like sitting at the UN: amongst individuals from Switzerland, Germany, Italy, Spain, and upon our arrival, America, all gathered around the fire on couches and other random furniture, gazing at the stars. Marcus greeted us happily, and while with Danielle from Germany Nicole learned that he had been so excited to meet Dian and Nicole, a mother and daughter traveling with each other and Charles…and they sang, too! Marcus played his guitar while Kris, also German like Marcus, stoked the fire.

Kris

Photo by Charles

At one point Dian and Nicole started singing while Dian played guitar, and even the taciturn Italian man was moved to bring out his harmonica. A Spanish woman camping in the area looked at the moon and stars while listening to the two and, possibly encouraged by the “fumes” she was inhaling, sounded a bit like a howling dog when she exclaimed, “Wowowowowow!” Nicole later realized she was parked two campers down from us at our camp area and though she looked to be not more than 30, had two daughters of 21 and 23! Nicole gave her her e-mail address for her and for Marcus if she saw him again.

It was getting late and we wanted to be up early the next day, so we bade farewell to the mellow yet welcoming bunch and walked back along the beach where no flashlight was necessary because of the bright, full moon.

Bear had met us at the campfire, but didn’t follow us home, though later on when we were just going to sleep he trotted over to our van and sat outside of it, quietly guarding.

Wow