DAY 42

Monday 22 August 2011

We woke up to a fantastic sunny (hot!) day, walked down to the “wild beach” side of the campground and started the day with a dip in the sea. Worked on the blog in the dining room (you can figure out why we get behind), took another dip, walked to the market down the road, where the shop owner said she knew a woman down the road who had recently moved back from San Pedro, Dian’s home town (a harbor town home to many Croatians over the years).

We decided to have dinner in the restaurant. The previous night they had goulash featured, for 65 k ($12), but everything was double that. Charles really wanted the goulash and our merry host Milan said, I think we still have two portions, and we said, Perfect! The goulash was incredibly good and the portions huge, with potatoes and a tuna pate that was outstanding. Milan came to our table plying us again with his six-pack of “medicines,” and this time Charles went for the “Motor oil” rather than the “Penicillin” or “Antibiotic,” while Nicole and Dian chose #1, the homemade sherry. Later he offered us a marmalade-filled bun as well.

Milan asked Dian if she would sing something with the band (guitar-6-string traditional mandolin-viola trio with great vocal harmonies), and he suggested “Clementine.” (Note: Dian’s mom and dad sang the same song on a visit to Yugoslavia/Croatia in the ‘80s. It’s very popular here.) After that rousing sing along, with Nicole adding harmony, Milan announced she was a jazz singer from LA, and she launched into “All of Me,” which the band didn’t know but followed masterfully. Her Satchmo scat break brought the audience to a fever pitch (her words), and she had to exit through the crowd back to the table shaking hands and receiving gifts of local sherry and honey from Milan and the staff. A table of Bavarian Germans sent over some fantastic fish (holy mackerel, literally!). So much great food, we carried back doggie plates for the next day.

Dian slept under the stars, knowing that all the garlic she consumed would keep away the mosquitos (and every other living creature).