Friday 4 November 2011
Morning found Dian's ankle begging for a rest - "All museum-ed out." she pronounced - but Nicole and Charles were up for the renowned Accademia, home of Michelangelo's titan David statue, so off they went without reservations, hoping for the best. Dian leisurely enjoyed the neighborhood, an espresso, second-hand shops, art store, and mailed a package of family Christmas presents.
The Accademia departure was delayed while Charles attempted to find a safe (won't get a massive ticket, or towed) parking spot for Colleen's car. When the culture hounds arrived after a long walk, pausing to take in and take photos of the immense, breathtakingly beautiful Duomo with its alternating stripes of black and white marble behind a facade so intricate you can hardly believe it, they found a long, long line. Will it work again? Do the drill: Nicole secured a place in line, Charles flashed the press pass, and bingo, not only side door immediate admission, but his ticket was gratis. Love it. That degree was worth something after all.
Once inside they walked into the first room, lined with impressive works of large scale (as is most of the Accademia). Most places save their best for later, let you build up to it. But after a slow cruise around, Nicole asked, "Would it be terrible to go straight to David?" Just as Charles was agreeing that might be a good plan, they spotted the museum of musical instruments off to the side, and couldn't resist. Glad they did, they saw gorgeous instruments nearly 400 years old, two by Stradivarius, and realized in this one small room was millions of dollars of irreplaceable instruments, the recognized pinnacle of the craft. There were two beautiful hurdy gurdies with carved heads for handles (an old painting showed us they've been around longer than we thought, and we were reminded of the teen we heard skillfully playing in Budapest), and an odd instrument from 1793 that must have been the world's first key-tar.
So, where was that pesky David? They walked into the next room and were stopped in their tracks. There, far away but looming dramatically above the admiring crowds, was the unmistakable shining white giant. "I didn't imagine the statue was that big." Nicole said. Five meters, 17 feet tall. To get to him, you had to walk past the perfect preview, a series of unfinished statues by Michelangelo lining the long high-ceilinged hall, primal figures trying to contort out of their marble prisons. Some believe he intentionally left them unfinished, to illustrate the process.
And then they came right up to what many consider the finest statue ever fashioned and one the greatest artworks in existence. Words fail as you gaze upward, then circle around. Michelangelo's achievement was astonishing, a gigantic creation in marble that seemed beyond lifelike. They snuck back for several goodbye peeks before finally leaving the grand museum. David was the star of Accademia, but there were so many other great works. Nicole was later gratified to find one she particularly examined in a guidebook, with greater explanation. Art 101. Or maybe 401, since it was in person.
Upon exiting they remembered that on the same street was a recommended gelato place that served Sicilian-style. Charles' tiramisu-chocolate mousse cone was way rich, a treat but he'd rather have the other kind several times a week. It was Italy!!
Back to pick up Dian, who circled back to the hotel just before they did, with her shopping bounty. On the way out of Florence we had to stop nearby the Duomo so Dian could take a look. One more astonished onlooker. Then on to Siena and back to Piegaro.
Dian always had an inkling Siena was a town we had to visit; Charles wondered if they really needed one more ancient gorgeous Umbrian hill town. Dian was right. Siena was beautiful and charming and held memories for the Andrews: the New York City transplant in her bookstore with many English titles (but not Twain's "The Innocents Abroad"), a terrific lunch on the patio with great views and a chef whom we saw pick the fresh basil for Nicole's spaghetti marinara, and, at dusk, probably the greatest piazza in Italy, Piazza del Campo, massive enough to host the horse races they've held there twice a year for at least 350 years. Nearly empty, at night in the off-season, it was spectacular.
This very full day got us back to our beloved La Cantina in Piegaro late enough to fall thankfully into bed. (Thank you Colleen, for making beautiful L'Antica Vetreria available to us. We will never forget.)
Morning found Dian's ankle begging for a rest - "All museum-ed out." she pronounced - but Nicole and Charles were up for the renowned Accademia, home of Michelangelo's titan David statue, so off they went without reservations, hoping for the best. Dian leisurely enjoyed the neighborhood, an espresso, second-hand shops, art store, and mailed a package of family Christmas presents.
The Accademia departure was delayed while Charles attempted to find a safe (won't get a massive ticket, or towed) parking spot for Colleen's car. When the culture hounds arrived after a long walk, pausing to take in and take photos of the immense, breathtakingly beautiful Duomo with its alternating stripes of black and white marble behind a facade so intricate you can hardly believe it, they found a long, long line. Will it work again? Do the drill: Nicole secured a place in line, Charles flashed the press pass, and bingo, not only side door immediate admission, but his ticket was gratis. Love it. That degree was worth something after all.
So, where was that pesky David? They walked into the next room and were stopped in their tracks. There, far away but looming dramatically above the admiring crowds, was the unmistakable shining white giant. "I didn't imagine the statue was that big." Nicole said. Five meters, 17 feet tall. To get to him, you had to walk past the perfect preview, a series of unfinished statues by Michelangelo lining the long high-ceilinged hall, primal figures trying to contort out of their marble prisons. Some believe he intentionally left them unfinished, to illustrate the process.
And then they came right up to what many consider the finest statue ever fashioned and one the greatest artworks in existence. Words fail as you gaze upward, then circle around. Michelangelo's achievement was astonishing, a gigantic creation in marble that seemed beyond lifelike. They snuck back for several goodbye peeks before finally leaving the grand museum. David was the star of Accademia, but there were so many other great works. Nicole was later gratified to find one she particularly examined in a guidebook, with greater explanation. Art 101. Or maybe 401, since it was in person.
Upon exiting they remembered that on the same street was a recommended gelato place that served Sicilian-style. Charles' tiramisu-chocolate mousse cone was way rich, a treat but he'd rather have the other kind several times a week. It was Italy!!
Back to pick up Dian, who circled back to the hotel just before they did, with her shopping bounty. On the way out of Florence we had to stop nearby the Duomo so Dian could take a look. One more astonished onlooker. Then on to Siena and back to Piegaro.
This very full day got us back to our beloved La Cantina in Piegaro late enough to fall thankfully into bed. (Thank you Colleen, for making beautiful L'Antica Vetreria available to us. We will never forget.)
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| Street art we thought by Blu |
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